A Rare 101-Carat Emerald-and-Diamond Cartier Bracelet Heads to Auction

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A rare Art Deco Colombian emerald bracelet by Cartier, circa 1926, will be offered at an upcoming auction at Bonhams in New York, with a presale estimate between US$750,000 and US$1.25 million.

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Weighing 101 carats, the bracelet features a row of seven rectangular and octagonal emeralds spaced by baguette-cut diamonds. It is being sold by descendants of Hélène Irwin Crocker Fagan, one of the richest American heiresses in the world during the Belle Epoque and Art Deco eras, according to Bonhams.

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“This is an extraordinary bracelet that is a once-in-a-lifetime jewel,” says Caroline Morrissey, director of jewelry for Bonhams New York. “The size and quality of the emeralds is unusual, and transfixing, and draws the viewing into the stone.”

“This is a bold and important piece from Cartier when they were at the height of creating Art Deco jewels,” Morrissey adds.

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Born into a family with a sugar fortune in Hawaii, Fagan married Templeton Crocker, a grandson of Charles Crocker, one of the big four railroad magnates, in 1911.

An art patron, yachtsman and philanthropist, Crocker was credited with popularizing French Art Deco in America, including commissioning a famous Art Deco apartment that had rooms and furnishings designed by Jean Dunand, which are now in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

The bracelet was most likely purchased by Hélène directly from Cartier, according to Morrissey. The heiress divorced Crocker in 1927, “but it is quite possible that this was one of the last pieces she purchased while married to him,” she says.

After the divorce, Hélène married Paul Fagan, who owned businesses in sports and hospitality.

The bracelet will be offered at Bonhams jewels sale on May 24 in New York. Previously the auction house sold an Art Deco emerald-and-diamond necklace/bracelet, circa 1930, for £1 million (US$1.3 million) in a London sale in April 2018; and an emerald-and-diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960–1961, for HK$9.6 million (US$1.2 million) in November 2012 in Hong Kong.

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Credit: www.marketwatch.com /

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