Parmigiani’s CEO Guido Terreni Discusses the Tonda’s Latest Evolution

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Joining Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January, Guido Terreni, former head of Bulgari’s watch division, set out to redesign the flagship Tonda collection to mark the brand’s 25th anniversary this year.

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Unveiled in late August, the new range, called the Tonda PF, includes three models with a choice of stainless steel fitted with platinum hand-pointed bezels or solid 18-karat rose gold.

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The Tonda PF micro-rotor (US$22,900 in steel, US$53,900 in gold) is a slim 40mm two-hander equipped with a platinum micro-rotor. The 42 mm Tonda PF chronograph (US$31,000 in steel, US$69,700 in gold) features a nearly flush blue dial and an integrated high-frequency chronograph movement, and the 42 mm steel Tonda PF Annual Calendar (US$38,700 in steel, US$77,500 in gold). in) is. Features a retrograde date display.

At the top of the line, the 42mm Tonda PF Split Second Chronograph (US$171,600) is limited to 25 pieces to mark the anniversary milestone. That model features a dial, case, and bracelet made of platinum 950 with a high-frequency, open-work, split-second chronograph movement in 18-karat rose gold.

Tonda PF Chronograph.

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The revamp of Tonda aims to give a more streamlined, contemporary and sport-chic image to the brand, based in Fleurier, Switzerland, and founded in 1996 by its namesake Michel Parmigiani. The goal was to translate all elements of Parmigiani’s unique approach. High horology with a refined style that is less formal and more appealing to a younger clientele in their 30s and 40s, who prefers silence over pomp and appreciates finer details that make a watch in the upper echelon lifts up. Clearly, Parmigiani isn’t a beginner brand.

“When you look at the industry, nine out of 10 watches bought today were designed in our father’s generation or our grandfather’s generation,” Terney said during a video call from Switzerland. “How can we put all this talent and knowledge into serving today’s customer in our 30s and 40s? Then you start to see the style, the beauty code hidden in the brand.”

Like all of Parmigiani’s designs, the new Tonda PF follows the Fibonacci principle of harmonious proportions with a fresh, sporty interpretation. “The delicate refinements we bring to the code, the attention to detail, this formal approach,” Terney said, drawing distinctions between the more industrially produced sport watch.

Tonda pf micro-rotor.

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First, the Parmigiani Fleurier logo on the dial was combined with a stylized PF already used by the brand in subtle ways, such as a signature on the crown. The PF is visible at 12 o’clock, encased in a vertical, oval, double-edged applique, while the dimensional dial index reflects light when you move your wrist.

Then attention turned to the dial’s Grain d’Or guilloche engraved finishing, which is more contemporary and minimal without losing the sense of hand craftsmanship.

“The guilloche is so small and thin that you need a double anti-reflective treatment on the glass to see it,” Terney explained. “The bigger you do the guilloche, the more old-fashioned it looks, and the smaller you do it, the more contemporary feeling you get. The idea was not to make the guilloche look, but to give a kind of treatment to the surface , but was not aggressive.

The color palette was inspired by the work of renowned Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier. Brown is a warm to warm dial tone, while blue is a versatile cool shade.

Tonda PF Split Second Chronograph.

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Then there are subtle changes like the fluted bezels, finishing of the lugs and the Link bracelet design, all of which offer an artistic feel and improved comfort.

“The bracelet needs to be wrist-friendly, not wrist-to-bracelet, so we chose to shorten the links to make them thinner to make them fully flexible,” Terney said. “It follows the wrist in a way that you don’t even feel it.”

Terney led the in-house design team to interpret and execute their concept for the development of the Tonda. “It is great to enter this sport-chic type of watch as the human race is going to wear less formal,” he said. “The more the world moves, the more you go into informality in the way you talk, the way you behave, the way you dress—but that doesn’t mean you have to forsake elegance.” Will happen.”

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